Motor Cycle Touring

Archive for the ‘Motorcycle Care’ Category

From April 1969 to 1977 the Ford Motor Company manufactured a compact car called the Ford Maverick. This custom car was manufactured in the United States, Canada and Mexico and for some time in Brazil from 1973 to 1979.

The Ford Maverick was developed and marketed to counter the Volkswagen beetle and the arrival of the new Japanese compact cars in the market. Initially priced at US1, 995, it was designed as a smaller version of the Ford Mustang and featured pop out rear windows that was simple and inexpensive.

The car’s name was derived from the word used for unbranded range animals and as such, the car’s nameplate was designed to resemble the skull of a long horned cow.

At its introduction, the Ford Maverick coupe was made available with such catchy exterior paint names like Anti-Establishment mint, Hulla blue, Candyapple red, champagne gold, Thanks vermillion and Freudian gilt to name a few.

One thing to take note of is that the early models lacked a glove compartment and was only added in 1974. A four door sedan model was released in 1971 and a custom station wagon model was created in Brazil in 1978 by a local dealer.

Because of the Ford maverick’s popularity, Ford revived its Mercury Comet model to be its mechanical clone in 1971. From 1973 to 1975 minor changes were made most notably were the improved brakes, and the chrome grille became a standard feature.

Because of the Arab oil embargo, oil and gas prices increased and demand for smaller cars resulted in the Ford Maverick to grow in popularity and sales increased in 1974.

The Ford Maverick and its clone the Mercury Comet saw less change towards the end of its lifespan as it was meant to be replaced by the Ford Granada and Monarch in 1975 even though the company continued to sell these custom cars until 1978.

The Ford Granada and Ford Monarch were developed as true European style compact cars and were marketed as a lower priced alternative to the more expensive European cars such as Mercedes Benz, BMW and Audi at car swap meets.

Since the Ford Maverick and Comet were designed as muscle cars, it was not fit to battle the European compacts even with the release of a custom “Luxury Décor Option (LDO) for the Maverick.

The Ford Maverick was the only new car to achieve sales success similar to that of the Ford Mustang. Introduced five years after the Ford Mustang was released, Ford produced a total of 579,000 units of the Ford Maverick in 1970 which was 5,000 more units produced than the Ford Mustang production in 1965 in an equal period of time.

Subsequent Ford maverick models and packages came after the Comet, namely the Grabber which was in production from 1971 to 1975, the Stallion which was released in 1976, and the Sprint in 1972 which was made in a special red, white and blue paint to patriotically acknowledge the 1972 Olympic Games.

Though this custom fits and packages were meant to market the Maverick and the Comet as new options, not much have changed in from its original design and features.

The release of the Ford Fairmont and Mercury Zephyr in 1978 saw the end of the line for the Ford Maverick and the Mercury Comet. The Ford Maverick’s product line and place in the North American market was replaced by the Fairmont model with its all new “Fox” platform that became the basic standard for subsequent designs for the Ford/mercury/Lincoln car product lines.

These custom cars may not have reached the popularity achieved by the Ford Mustang but it still made an impact in the American car market during its time.

The alternative is to disconnect the fuel line between tank and carburetors or injectors, start the engine until the system runs out of gas and plug the entry of gasoline. Fill the fuel tank and months later when you return to put the bike up dismiss it. Or drain tank and system and hot-plugged to minimize the amount of moisture in and prevent non-humid air. Remember that the filler caps not let in air to create vacuum and sinks by pulling the excess gas and gases that must clog with cork or rubber. Better yet, go for a ride once in a while, but bundle up!

Bike wash thoroughly in a well ventilated area before parking for long periods. Pay special attention to low, or stand kickstand, chain and sprockets for transmission and all those points where it accumulates heavy grease and dirt from the road because this is a mix conducive to the appearance of rust (grease traps moisture and salts the road and keeps them glued to the metal). If you use pressurized water being careful not to force water into the chambers of electrical / electronic components and do not forget to grease all the points once completed. Make sure there are no puddles of standing water on any surface or inside tubes and chassis.

Use a conditioner with wax to protect it from moisture. Once dry, start the bike and let it reach its operating temperature. For optimal protection, as it cools can apply a layer of lubricant such as WD40 spray all surfaces under the rubber. WD stands for water dispersant, repelerte of water, which gives an idea of why it is good to protect the metal from the bike during the winter.

WD is not alone and there are many similar products that perform the same function. Lubricate the chain with a special product for chains with O-rings. Wash the tires with soap and water and drain thoroughly with plenty of water, keep all types of lubricants out of contact with the rubber tires. If you use products to brighten and darken the plastics and rubber, do not use them before storing the bike because they contain chemicals.

Cover the bike during winter but do it with a quality cover that allows perspiration. Plastic covers trap moisture and promote the condensation of water temperature changes from night to day and between seasons while promoting the conditions for corrosion appears. Cover them with old blankets or sheets is often counterproductive because the cotton and wool store moisture in wet weather and dry weather discharge, creating an environment conducive to the appearance of rust.

Do not forget to clean and keep your helmet clean overalls, pants, jackets and bags of material harness with an appropriate product and store in a cool and dry to avoid mold.

All of these tips may seem exaggerated or fall short. They are the most overlooked and most easily can extend over the life of your bike and its resale value. In addition, next season will start at the first and walk briskly from the first turn of the handle. If you’re not convinced, ask at your workshop will have as many bikes in May to clean carburetors and replace batteries. Of course, it is best to first of all check with your garage about how to store the bike during the winter months.

Leave it in a dry place on a hard surface that will not soak in water as the natural soil and shade from the sun. Ultraviolet rays that cause discoloration of the paint, tires degrade rubber and plastic materials. Do not be fooled, though then less sun than in summer, more harmful radiation passing through the cloud cover. Put a couple of cardboard or a wooden board under the wheels. This isolates the cold soil and helps keep gum rubber tires. At low temperatures, the rubber cracks and if it freezes completely loses its elasticity.

Remove the battery from its compartment on the bike. Spray the contacts of the cables and battery with a thin layer of a lubricant such as WD40 product. If there is a sealed unit, check that all the compartments are filled to their minimum level and filled with distilled water to reach those who do not.

Recharge the battery with a battery charger suitable. A charger costs less than a new battery. Save both in dry and safe place where it can not accidentally fall on its side and out of reach of children. Ideally you should recharge the battery once every two weeks until the level of recharge, thus ensuring long battery life longer and more productive.

If the bike is going to stand for four months or more to prevent internal corrosion is advisable to change the oil and filter before storing. Some of the remaining products of combustion accumulate in highly corrosive oil and making it inadvisable to leave the bike all winter with the old oil change and wait for the next season. Read the rest of this entry »

TIPS TO LEAVE FOR THE MOTORCYCLE PARKED IN WINTER

To avoid the premature death of your bike, take care in winter to prevent the premature death of your bike, take care in winter

Season comes, paradoxically, the bikes do less miles but in which many suffer more damage and age more than in the summer months. With the arrival of cold and rain most of our bikes is accommodation for long periods of time in a corner of the garage in the courtyard, in stores or on the people’s house, where less than hinder, under a cover, or old blankets plastic, waiting for good weather returns and the desire to conquer the world on the bike.

In the summer months, while we use more we pay attention and care facilities. Come the winter seems to only remember the good memories they left the exit and travel and forget they need special care and attention to the circumstances in which they spend the colder months and humid.

Preventing this requires taking a few precautions that you take a while, a morning or afternoon and avoid premature aging, visit the workshop, call the roadside assistance services and breakdowns that will surely come sooner or later. These breakdowns that surprise us, we can understand why they happen and to say we always confused But I care very well, took the workshop and fill service intervals! Read the rest of this entry »

If you live in Paris region, Marc, Flo and Cricri you propose to take care of your moto at home. Washing without water, renovation of evaluated, silver, plastics, leather and paintings mattes, verification of security organs : with DNA, you will find a machine such as Newfoundland without having to lift a finger! In addition, such as the cleaning have an ecological conscience, since they use of the products of cleaning bio. Allow 45 € to 100 € per intervention, according to the options selected (loyalty card possible).

Viscous

The viscous hydroplaning due to the characteristics of the water slimy. A thin film of liquid over a thousandth of an inch in depth is all that is necessary. The tire can not penetrate the liquid and the tire rolls over the movie. This can occur at a rate much lower than the hydroplane dynamic, but requires a temporary flat or smooth surface such as asphalt or a touchdown area covered with rubber accumulated past landings. Such a surface can have the same coefficient of friction than wet ice.

When confronted with the possibility of hydroplaning, the best land in a grooved channel (if available). The touchdown speed must be as slow as possible consistent with safety. After the wheel bow down the runway, braking should be applied moderately. If the deceleration is not detected and hydrofoils is suspected, the nose should be lifted and used aerodynamic drag to decelerate to a point where the brakes become effective.

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Rubber Invested

Inverted rubber (steam) that hydroplaning occurs during heavy braking which results in a prolonged skid locked-wheel. Only a thin film of water in the channel is required to facilitate this type of hydroplaning. The tire skid generates enough heat to make the rubber in contact with the channel fresh investment to its original. Inverted rubber acts as seal between the tire and the runway, and retards the flow of water in the area of the footprint of the tire. The water heats up and turns to steam which supports the tire of the channel.

The inverted rubber hydroplaning often follows an encounter with dynamic hydroplaning, while the driver can lock the brakes in an attempt to slow the plane. The plane eventually slows enough to where the tires make contact with the surface of the runway and the plane starts to skid. The remedy for this type of seaplane pilot is to throw the brakes and let the wheels do spin up and apply moderate braking. Inverted rubber hydroplaning is insidious in that the pilot may not know when it starts, and may persist groundspeeds very slow (20 knots or less).

Dynamic hydroplaning is a relatively high speed that occurs when a film of water on the runway that is at least one tenth inch deep. As the aircraft speed and depth of water increased, the layer of water builds up an increasing resistance to dislocation, resulting in the formation of a wedge of water under the tire.

At a certain speed, called the hydroplaning speed (VP), the upward force generated by water pressure equals the weight of the aircraft and the tire is removed from the surface of the channel. In this condition, the tires no longer contribute to the directional control and braking action is nothing.

Dynamic hydroplaning is related to the inflation pressure of the tire. The data obtained during hydroplaning tests have shown the minimum dynamic hydroplaning speed (VP) of a tire to be 8.6 times the square root of the tire pressure in pounds per square inch (PSI). For an airplane with a head pressure of 24 PSI tire, the calculated hydroplaning speed would be about 42 knots. It is important to note that the rate referenced above is calculated for the beginning of dynamic hydroplaning. Once hydroplaning has begun, may persist to a significantly reduced rate depending on which is experienced.

Recovery

To recover while traveling in a straight line, the driver should not turn the steering wheel of a car or applying the brakes. Any action could put the car into a skid from which recovery would be difficult or impossible to. Instead, no change in steering input, the driver should gently ease the throttle pressure. The control should then return. If braking is unavoidable, the driver should lightly pump the brakes until hydroplaning has stopped.
If the rear wheels and cause hydroplaning oversteer, the driver should steer in the direction of the skid until you gain traction following links, and then goes rapidly in the other direction to straighten the car.

Prevention by the driver

The best strategy is to avoid as many contributors to hydroplaning as is possible. Proper tire pressure, narrow tires and not spent, and slow speeds of those deemed suitable will moderate dry mitigate the risk of hydroplaning. Avoidance of standing water is another effective strategy of prevention.

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If multiple hydroplaning tires, the vehicle may lose directional control and slide until it hits an obstacle, or slows enough that one or more tires in contact with the road again and friction is regained.

The likelihood of hydroplaning increases with vehicle speed and water depth. The wear and tread under-inflation also increases the risk for hydroplaning, as well as more wide tires. Narrower tires are less vulnerable to hydroplaning because the vehicle’s weight is distributed over a smaller rubber patch contact, resulting in a greater capacity for water pressure tires on the sides, allowing tire contact with pavement .

The practice of dressing over replacing the size of the original equipment wheel of a vehicle on a wheel of larger diameter and replacing the tire by a tire of the low-aspect-ratio affects the same diameter, some of the performance characteristics of vehicles, and increases the risk of hydroplaning with wider tires.

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